Carcassonne is an extremely popular tourist destination, particularly in the peak summer months. The steep narrow streets of the citadel swarm with visitors, while every other building seems to be a restaurant, cafe, gift shop or museum. Shops overflow with stocks of anything with a medieval connection: flails, swords, shields made of wood and plastic for bloodthirsty children; tapestries for their parents.
A small general store on rue Cros Mayrevieille offers a chance to buy the basics, while specialist shops provide sweets and wines. Every July the town hosts a festival of music, dance and theatre, the Festival de
Carcassonne's Castle (Chateau Comtal) is the town's major tourist attraction, with queues to match. Visit the buildings and museum first, then join one of the regular guided tours (out of season, you may have to settle for French commentary). The tours are the only way to explore an exciting series of towers, turrets and ramparts, with fantastic views and countless photo-opportunities. The tour finishes by Carcassonne's open-air theatre, next to the cathedral.
The Cathedral (Basilique Saint-Nazaire), which is dedicated to Saints Nazarius and Celsus, has been built and rebuilt several times since the 6th century. Today's nave dates back to the twelfth-century Romanesque church, while the rest of the building is mostly Gothic. The cathedral has two beautiful and colourful rose windows, an early organ (dating to 1522), several interesting tombstones and statues, as well as the 'Siege Stone', a carving showing a detailed military scene.
It's possible to pass several pleasant hours wandering the streets of the town, or walking around the ramparts. Children and the young-at-heart will be thrilled to discover just how accessible some of the wall-walks are, although care should be taken as you negotiate the imposing outer walls. When they're not playing at being medieval knights, visitors of all ages can enjoy a spin on the beautiful vintage carousel which stands at the city gates.
When you're ready to move on from the crowded lanes of the Cité, you can stroll down to the lower town, over the old bridge. There are benches and riverside walks, as well as a number of sights to see. The famous Canal du Midi passes through Carcassonne, with a charming little marina next to the station. Boat trips will take you on a leisurely canal cruise, or walkers may enjoy a ramble along the broad canalside path.